Roman Moser
1. Choice of equipment Rods, reels, fly lines, fly floatants, clothes, glasses, and other useful items.
Since I put my fly in front of the fish in different waters in terms of width and current speed, my choice of rod is very complex. On smaller waters I use a short, softer rod that allows me to land larger finned fish quickly. In addition, this short tackle is best suited for overgrown streams and for offering the roll cast. For wide waters, a 9 ft rod foot-rod, #6, with a slightly faster action is optimal, as you can still present the fly cleanly at distance and - in windy conditions.
In my opinion, most of the casting devices that can be bought today could do with one more ring (guide). The main advantage of this would be that when casting and shooting the line, it would slide closer to the blank, there would be no sagging and the friction angle in the rings would be reduced. The first ring, the so-called "stripping guide", should also be positioned closer to the handle to prevent the line from wrapping around the blank during so-called "skooting". This close ring position also forces the line to be shortened at the right moment during the double haul forward movement, thus optimising the loading but also the tension. The friction angle in the base ring is also reduced to a minimum.
It is logical that, if possible, matt lacquered rod blanks and not shiny reels should be used. Light reflections should be reduced to a minimum. This also applies to equipment and accessories that usually dangle from the fly waistcoat.
The reel
For larger rivers, a reel with the appropriate capacity is recommended to hold several metres of backing. Because, sprinting Rainbows often pull the entire flying line from the reel before you can stop them. These line reels should also have a finely adjustable brake system, so that you can quickly adjust them lighter or harder, depending on the distance of the fish from the angler. The disc brake should also be of a dirt- and water-resistant design to prevent it from jamming or overrunning in the fight.
The Fly line
Nowadays, a wide variety of flying lines are offered on the relevant market. For the dry fly, of course, you need a floating line. These are usually available in different colours and different tapers. Personally, I prefer a WF line, which allows me to present a dry fly accurately even at longer distances. It is true that in small waters you are better off with a double taper line, as this is more suitable for delicate roll casts. But I have developed an alternative!
Years ago I commissioned a private label line from the Rio company that has a 3.5 metre front taper, with the thickest and heaviest part of the line after that. The tip itself, on the other hand, runs out extremely delicately. After that, however, the line diameter gradually becomes thinner and thinner until it reaches 10 metres, where it merges into the running line. I call the whole thing an Arrow Taper.
This design of the head section enables me to present the fly extremely delicately at close range as well as to bring the line to distance with just a few casts. At the same time it shows enormous stability in the air. The line is light blue in colour, although from the end of the line the colour changes to yellow - and from a total length of 20 metres - back to light blue. As I have given many courses in fly fishing and fly casting, the 20 metre mark was always a certain sound barrier for the practitioner, which - when reached - filled him with confidence and pride. This colour change also made it easier to estimate the eventual distance.
The Arrow Taper is also great for roll casts and switch casts, with a #6 being delicate to put down in small streams and close quarters. This line is also ideally suited for the Gebetsroither casting style, as with the elliptical line (perpendicular to the surface of the ground and not - as erroneously described - flat to it) you can easily change the working angle. Everything is possible, from a narrow ellipse to almost circular guidance. These are all the advantages of the Gebetsroither style.
Fly Vest
A small pair of pliers dangles from my fly waistcoat, which has several functions: Namely cutting, clamping - to squeeze a barb - and a needle to open a stuck fly eye if necessary. Furthermore, there is a floating agent in the breast pockets, which, however, already becomes liquid at low temperature and can be worked into the dry fly with the fingers. Due to this thin liquid consistency, even CDC hackles hardly stick.
If necessary, I can wash the synthetic fat out of the hackles by whip-casting on the water surface. Since I fish very often in larger alpine rivers, I use my Fly-Pocket-Bra as a fly waistcoat, which could also be combined with a back pocket. On longer trips, this pocket can hold more fly boxes, a rain jacket, a snack and something to drink.
Clothing
Of course, one should adapt to the surroundings with one's clothing. Muted colours and even camouflage jackets make us blend in with the vegetation surrounding us. The deeper you stand in the water, the less we are perceived as predators by the fish. Casting from the shade of bushes and trees is also useful.
But since I write for a German-language magazine, my friend, who is a professional photographer, wants me to wear eye-catching outerwear and stand out - as a distinctive point from the natural surroundings. Nevertheless, I catch my fish like this and even at close range in smaller streams and rivers, as long as you use shadows and vegetation as camouflage.
Glasses
In order to be able to recognise the fish in the visible water and also to protect the eyes, the use of polarising glasses is of great benefit. I prefer glasses in the colour light brown to yellow - which also act as brighteners in poor visibility conditions. Grey lenses should be worn for saltwater fishing to soften the glaring sunlight.
2. Leader material, build-up, length and knots.
I am absolutely not a fan of knotted leaders, because although they stiffen the power transmission part, they become fly catchers in windy conditions and when fishing with a dragged caddis fly, they tempt smaller fish to attack the knots. I mainly use a tapered leader, such as a "Flat Butt Leader", where a small metal ring is knotted to a diameter of about 0.22 mm. I knot about a metre of tippet material of various thicknesses to this ring.
The whole leader reaches a length of about 3 metres. The flat material of the power transmission part rolls very well and has little memory effect. I only use polyamide as the "tippet", not the fluoro-carbon material, as this is much stiffer than the PA plastic. The aim is also to lay the leader in loose cooils to reduce any drag on the fly - the so-called microdrag - to a minimum. In shallow, visible water and low current, I lengthen the butt section of the leader. I use about 1 metre of 0.50 mm monofilament with 2 loops. With this now approx. 4 metre long leader, I reduce the scaring effect with delicate fish to a minimum.
Line connection
My connection between line and leader is a very small and short loop connection made of braided material called "Minicon Trout Loops". I usually cut off the industrially manufactured, so-called "welded loops" at the tip of the flying line, as these strongly influence the reeling action and, due to their stiff, open shape, cause annoying popping noises when they lift off the water surface. My minicons, which are glued in place, are hardly noticeable and form a non-disturbing connection to the leader. In addition, I rub the elastic adhesive material into the braid. Of course, you have to seal the interface with some superglue beforehand.
3. Approach and stealth.
If you want to approach fish in small streams or shallow, calm water, a low silhouette is essential for success. If you creep up on your prey slowly and silently, it is also much easier to present the fly accurately. You should also make your own rod appear less conspicuous by treating it with a steel wool. When you see the bright flashes of light that a swinging rod emits in sunshine - even at a greater distance - you will gladly resort to this measure. Creeping up from a crouching position or casting from a kneeling position are also important factors for success.
And above all, it is the wild fish that react extremely allergic to disturbances of their natural environment. This is because the predators' attacks are mainly from above. Wading should also be as quiet as possible. Scratching spikes on the waders and clanking metal tips on the wading stick are not conducive to successful fishing. This is because the sound (noise) travels rapidly in the water and scares away the fish in a wide radius.
In addition, you should also use the natural vegetation for camouflage and blend in with it, so to speak. You should also refrain from hectic movements. These are unnatural and immediately scare the fish away. If you cast from a high position, you should - if possible - place yourself far away from the edge of the bank and from there put your fly in front of the fish. Accurate casts and short drift distances are therefore essential.
4. Reading the water.
The experience factor plays a major role here. And this, of course, also in the most diverse waters in terms of width and current. Salmonids need a lot of oxygen to survive and prefer cold water. Rivers from warmer lakes have the problem of oxygen depletion in summer. Therefore, the fish are mainly found in turbulent currents. Places after shallow, fast rushes and trickling stretches are therefore preferred habitats for all trout species. So-called "drop offs", i.e. drop-offs into deep water, are popular locations. In addition, shallower, light-flooded sections produce a lot of food in the form of invertebrates.
In very cold waters, the fish avoid the fast water and are therefore found in calm, shore areas, current breaks or slower sections. The salmonid species that are mainly found in our area have very different site preferences. Thymallus, the grayling, prefers evenly fast currents, deeper channels, but also the rising water bottom at the end of a pool. Brown trout, on the other hand, love the regions near the banks or places with deadwood. They also prefer blocked stretches of water, oxygen richness, turbulent currents or shelter behind larger rocks or underwater plants.
Rainbow trout are less sensitive to water temperatures. They are all-rounders, in terms of habitat. The priority for the American is the presence of abundant food. Therefore, flow and therefore food funnels are important for them. Likewise, impoundment areas in front of obstacles. Brown trout are individualists when it comes to their own stand. In contrast, grayling and rainbow can be described as schooling fish, whereby the daily availability and accessibility of food is decisive, especially for the American. In larger rivers you have to look for the fish, as the so-called "dilution effect" causes this. In smaller waters you have quicker success. Especially if they are well-structured, as this really points out the different places where fish can be found. In winter, deeper channels and scours act as preferred habitats - and this is true for all fish species.
5. Casting ability which casts are essential.
Basically there are only 2 ways to move a fly line. And that is the British-American style, over the rod tip to the back and also to the front - a so called figure of eight loop of the line. And the Gebetsroither style, up the side under the rod tip to the back and over the tip to the front, in an elliptical, vertical basic movement. The rod must be held at a slight angle when doing this. In the British-American style, the thumb is mainly placed on top of the handle, but this often leads to a windscreen wiper or autostopper movement in beginners.
This then often results in a "touché" on the water surface during the back cast. Especially when trying to keep longer line in the air, this happens. In the Gebetsroither style, the index finger is mainly positioned on the grip - or to the side of it, in the so-called "gusset grip". Furthermore, this form of line movement is also conducive to the side cast, the steeple cast and the switch cast. All movements are performed from the shoulder. Especially when using the dry fly, accuracy is crucial. A precise landing is a prerequisite, especially for stationary fish that collect food floating on the surface. Since the drifting distance is very short here, the cast must be made diagonally downwards from a high starting position. The fly drifts only a short distance on the water surface. If the fish refuses, you have to - far behind - lift the line off the water again. Drying casts over the fish, especially in smooth, visible water, are not conducive. The spray of a rolling line and also the shadow of the cast usually scare the fish away.
In slow currents and with salmonids standing tall, a low cast is appropriate. This way you can place your fly unnoticed, out of sight, in the smaller sight window on the water surface. With cross casts, a reach cast usually leads to success, as here the angle to the rising fish is much more acute and also the inevitable bulge of the line and the so-called "dragging" is compensated by the current. Of course, parachute casts - even at greater distances - are also a means of overcoming sweeping currents.
So-called "snake casts" are not useful, as the point of lay and impact of the fly are not exactly predictable. In smaller rivers, the roll cast is also often used. Air roll casts and switches in parachute or reach cast design are in demand here. Those who have mastered curved casts, aerial mends or hook casts are of course at an advantage.
6. Entomology, what should we know.
Mayflies, caddisflies and midges hatch for the most part on the water surface. From their nymph or pupa shell. Especially smaller representatives of mayflies have a hard time breaking through the elastic skin of the water surface. Once they have succeeded in doing so, the problem of adhesion affects the tiny bodies. Caught in this adhesive layer, miscarriages and also drowning deaths often occur, which is called "Stillborn Dun" or "Crippled Dun". Tipping over and holding on to their wings due to surface tension is also common.
Some fish specialise in feeding on these accidental insects. It is extremely difficult for the angler to select and offer the right imitation at these multi-layered, emergence stages. From floating nymphs to the bloat, crawl-out and wing-spreading stages, to stillbirth and capsize stages, it's all there. It is easiest for us when flies are picked from the surface as finished duns in the so-called "sailboat position". In this case, the swallows are often the biggest beneficiaries. Incidentally, mayflies undergo what is known as an "imperfect metamorphosis".
Caddisflies are vigorous insects that - if they hatch on the surface - very quickly take off from it and fly towards riparian bushes. Nevertheless, their emergence involves a lot of hustle and bustle on the water surface. Hopping and hopping to unfold their wings and dry out cause attention and result in splashing attacks and occasional aerial acrobatics on the part of the fish.
Midges have difficulty freeing themselves from their pupal shells, especially in slippery water. Seeking help and unable to take off, several individuals often cling to each other and float on the water surface as "clustered midges". A light breath of air or a gentle breeze makes it much easier for these, often very small insects, to hatch and leave the water surface.
As a fly fisherman you should at least know about the life cycles of those aquatic insects that are mainly considered as food for our salmonids. Basically, there are 4 main groups of insects that hatch after their larval stage at the bottom of the water, on the water surface or in the shore area and thus come into question as fish food.
These include the so-called mayflies, which can appear on the water surface as tiny representatives, such as the Baetis species, but also in butterfly size - such as the mayflies (Ephemera). These insects go through various stages of development. From the larva or nymph, through the crawling or hatching stage, to the flying insect or "dun" (subimago), and finally to the reproductive individual - the spinner (imago).
Mating always takes place in the air, with the clutch subsequently deposited on or below the water surface. As far as the preference of subaquatic habitats is concerned, this can mostly be guessed from the body shapes. Here one finds the active, slender swimmers, the shallow stone clammers living in fast water. The stolid moss climbers and the tunnel diggers in the mud and mulch of the chalk rivers.
The fully developed insects, with their wings erect in the resting position, live only one day in reproductive age and do not take any more food.
The next very important group are the fur flies, caddis flies, sedges or caddis flies. In the larval stage they resemble an elongated maggot or caterpillar, although they actually show different lifestyles depending on the family to which they belong. Here we have the true house builders or Limnepilidae, which, depending on the flow velocity, drag a stone-weighted or even lighter tubular structure around with them. Then there are the web-builders or Hydropsychidae, which, like a spider, spread webs under the stones and accumulate detritus food in them. And then there are the predatory, free-living Riacophilidae strolling around at the bottom of the water. When their time has come, they all attach themselves to the bottom of the water, close their tube house or build a stone dome in which they turn into pupae. Thus, similar to mosquitoes, they have a complete metamorphosis.
After some time, the pupa swims to the water surface or towards the shore, where it hatches from its "transport body" and becomes a winged insect. At this stage they no longer moult, but can ingest nectar and often live for several weeks. To lay their eggs, they return to the water and either release their eggs on the water surface or dive or crawl to the bottom of the water. Some species deposit their eggs under the leaves of the riparian vegetation. Very spectacularly, in midsummer, on warm days at the time of the evening jump, the promenade flight takes place, whereby they move purposefully upstream, resembling a brownish cloud of mist.
Stoneflies are true primordial insects that climb onto larger bank stones as nymphs, where they burst their "carapace" on the back and crawl out of their outer skeleton that has become too narrow. It takes some time until their 4 wings have dried and they can rise into the air.
Some stonefly families have a perennial nymphal stage, with the males of some species being flightless and only able to attract females by drumming. The largest representatives of the stonefly family are the Perlidae, which are mainly found in fast-flowing cold waters of mountainous regions. All stonefly species are basically poor fliers, although this is particularly evident when they lay their eggs on the water surface. The smaller representatives of the stoneflies are the Needle Flies, which roll up their anthracite-coloured wings over their backs when at rest. The yellow-coloured Yellow Sallies of the genus Isoperla are also very striking. Stone flies basically have only 2 developmental stages, namely nymph and fully developed insect.
Midges are insects with a complete metamorphosis. They also go through a pupal stage. Midges are an important food source for juvenile fish, both as larva, pupa and finished insect. These two-winged insects occur at the water's edge in various sizes, with midges (Daddy Long Legs) being among the larger representatives. Many midges hatch in standing water and play a major role as "buzzers", especially in the British stillwater fishery. In the river, they attract fish to the surface, especially on sunny days in the winter months. However, midge pupae also play an important role as fish food at certain times - if they are held for longer by the surface tension of the water. So-called terrestrial insects are also very important as surface food during the course of the year. These include winged ants, spiders, caterpillars, beetles - and not to forget – grasshoppers.
7. Fly selection, Size, shape, materials, which flies are essential.
Who knows the patterns, names them?
Thousands of different fly patterns can be found all over the world. But what you tie on the end of your leader is up to each fly fisher. And he should therefore also have the appropriate knowledge about the insect world. It is not necessary to recognise and classify every aquatic insect by its flight pattern. Basic knowledge is usually sufficient. And there is also relevant literature for this.
In principle, it should be said that in fast or turbulent water, a larger, well-swimming imitation is most likely to be successful. The fish have absolutely no choice there. Rise up and take it, is the motto here. Because, if they think or hesitate for a while, the prey has already drifted past and out of reach. That's why we also put up so-called "attractor flies" that are easy to recognise. However, the situation is completely different in smooth, slow or still water. Here the fish has enough time to take a closer look at its potential food. If it does not meet its expectations or if its appearance differs from the food currently available, it will be refused. This can go so far that the fish rises up and lets itself drift off with the fly so that it can take a closer look at it. Then, however, it returns to the bottom of the water without eating.
In spring, at the beginning of the season, you can have success with a wide variety of fly patterns, as the hunger is particularly great here after the winter months. In autumn, however, when the stomach is full, the fish are particularly selective. If the fly offer is rejected, it is often more effective to change to a smaller or more sparsely tied fly.
I consider the parachute flies to be particularly catchy fly patterns, as the shallowly placed hackle rim is less disturbing here and also gives the imitation good swimming properties. Duck-tail flies, so-called "CDC flies", have started a triumphal march around the world. With this fluffy feather, all insect families can be imitated - from mayflies to sedges and stoneflies to mosquitoes. Its great advantage - apart from its good, natural buoyancy - is its dissolved silhouette and the fine movements of the fibers.
Above the water there is a constant breeze caused by the current, which gives the imitation a life of its own. I personally love fishing with the caddis fly - and here especially with a Deltawing variant with an additional "balloon, foam head". This imitates especially the moment of wing stretching and that phase after egg laying under water, where the wing tips are still soaked and the fly cannot immediately lift off the surface. Delicate movements with the rod tip give my imitation a special charm. The soft, spread wings are made of mouflon hair and give an appearance that hardly any fish can resist, even in smooth water. Trembling and slithering guides are the key to success here.
8. Presentation and drifts.
One of the biggest problems when presenting a dry fly is mini drag. Even when you countermend on the surface, the fixed point is always the angler, from whom everything starts. But even natural insect drifts do not drift in a straight line. They are exposed to various surface currents and eddies. Fish know this too and accept it.
When searching for fish in fast water, you can use surface mending to compensate for the different currents. Curve casts, aerial mending or reach casts can compensate for this. Dragging plays a rather subordinate role here. The situation is quite different, however, when casting across to the opposite bank. Here a small parachute cast - also in combination with a reach cast - is the most promising. This way you can compensate for the fast intercurrent and thus achieve a longer drift along the shore. Sweeping currents can also be managed with a high set Parachute Cast. With highly placed fish, an accurate presentation is essential. This is a basic prerequisite for success. Here, the cast should be made diagonally downstream, from a high backward roll position. However, the aiming point is also moved slightly upstream by stopping the cast and pulling the line back slightly (back-stopped cast). This should also be done in conjunction with a light reach cast. The drifting distance to the rising fish is thus reduced to a minimum and counteracts a possible rut.
9. Upstream or downstream?
In larger rivers I first cast current at an angle and serve my fly so that it first drifts into the fish's viewing window. The leader and line are still out of the target's range of perception. However, far behind the fish, the line should be lifted off the water again and also offset to the side, using empty casts to dry the fly. In smaller or blocked waters, I usually present my artifact upstream, in conjunction with a light hook cast. Here, too, it is important that the fly drifts towards the fish, slightly offset, and that the tip of the leader does not necessarily drift over the tip of the fisherman's nose, which can lead to a refusal.
10. Fighting Fish
Small fish can usually be landed very quickly. With larger or jumping fish you should of course check the breacking strength of your leader - and do this before presenting the fly. If the fish pulls line, it is of course a prerequisite to have enough line on the reel. By holding up the rod, a large fish can also be guided around obstacles, whereby sudden easing of the pull causes the fish to stop and no longer flee.
In large, fast rivers it is often not possible to follow the fish, so use a reel with the appropriate capacity. A very effective method is to pull the fish sideways from different directions and to flip the rod in order to unbalance it and to direct it out of the fast current towards the bank. This tires the fish very much during its escape attempts and it can finally be brought close to the landing net.
