Glenn R. Weisner

Leader material, build-up, length, and knots

Anybody that knows me knows this is probably the second highest rated topic to use to make fun of me. Why? I am a leader and tippet nut. I am always buying tippet, trying new leaders and tippet, or making changes. Why? A few reasons and a few comments. First, I am old school and believe if you walk into a fly shop you should spend $100 …… a few logo fly boxes and several spools of tippet gets you there every time. Second, I “typically” fish with a lot of tippet, meaning, longer lengths of tippet. Most fly fishers I watch online or onstream tend to fish longer fly lines and shorter tippets. I am almost the exact opposite. I prefer to use a shorter cast and a longer tippet. To me, using more line or casting longer, if not necessary, creates extra complications requiring additional line management or casting adjustments to compensate. I prefer to use my positioning and approach (discussed above) to help put myself in the best possible spot to make the shortest cast. From there, I generally start with the notion- “what’s the longest tippet that I can use to execute this cast/presentation”? I like longer tippet because I thinks it drags less than a fly line, can be made to float or sink, can be used to move the fly such as by wind drifting, can aid in a cast such as by landing softly or with slack and it can help with certain casts such as a snap hook or curve cast.

I understand there are a lot of tippet brands and types in the marketplace today. For some, it can be confusing. I suggest searching online because there are quite a few extensive articles describing and testing tippet materials in “shootouts” or simple reviews. Beyond this research, I suggest you purchase and try different tippets. Sometimes it’s much easier to develop a preference while on the stream.

My favorites include: (in no specific order)

Orvis Super Strong- more of a medium stiff / less supple nylon, to me. Very dependable for abrasion and strength. Average stretch to my mind. Several articles will describe this tippet as being sized large- meaning for example- their 6x is really 5x. Personally, I don’t find it to fish that way on the water. It is readily available in most fly shops and a good all-around tippet in my opinion.
Trout Hunter EVO- more of a less stiff / more supple nylon, to me. Very dependable for abrasion and strength. Above average stretch to my mind. Maybe a touch harder to find in fly shops, but a very high-end tippet in my opinion, especially for technical dry fly circumstances. Another cool aspect is this tippet is also sold in ½ sizes….. 5x ….. 5.5x for example.

Varivas Master Spec- more of a medium stiff / less supple nylon, to me. Very dependable for abrasion and strength. Average stretch to my mind. Several articles will describe this tippet as being slightly undersized- meaning for example- their 5x is really 6x. Personally, I don’t find it to fish exactly that way on the water, rather, to me, I think it’s just a “thinner” feeling true “x”. For example, their 6x is 6x but it feels thin. Maybe a touch harder to find in fly shops, but a very high-end tippet in my opinion, especially for technical dry fly circumstances requiring 6x-8x..
Seagar G-Max and Soldarini S-power- hands down, are my two favorite Fluorocarbon tippets. I think most flyfishes use Fluro for subsurface fishing due to its strength, abrasion resistance, sink rate and “invisibility”. To me, it can be a great dry fly tippet as well. Both tippets are world class in dependability in my mind.

Leaders are entirely another world of research and development in my mind. It feels like I have been messing around with store bought and custom-made leaders forever. I have files of leader formulas and drawers of spools of leader building materials. A few of them proved themselves over the years, and many did not. Here are a few of my thoughts:

Store-bought leaders offer many advantages. They are made for you, tapered consistently, knotless, and very easy to acquire. In the store-bought world, I like to match the tippet to the leader. I don’t know why, but I just think that’s important. So, if I am using Orvis Super Strong tippet for example, I will use one of their leaders, etc.

In the custom-made leader world, I am from the George Harvey school of leaders. I saw his book when I was a senior in high school in 1985. There I read about “slack” leaders or slack casting with dry flies. Since then, many publications have detailed his leaders as well as modifications to his original work by himself and others such as Joe Humphries. I still prefer Maxima Chameleon and often add a micro tippet ring at the terminal end so I can attach tippets as outlined above.

Lastly, the world of furled leaders was exposed to me over twenty years ago by my good friend Andy Sobota. Andy is the son of Jim Sobota, mentioned above. Andy is EXTREMLY talented. He is a world class Salmon fly dresser, fly caster and fly-fisher. Over the years he has made wooden nets, salmon fly hooks, brewed craft beer and even bult his own home! One day he said to me, “take a look at this”. It was a long board with a bunch of pegs sticking out of it. He asked me, do you know what this is? I said, not a clue. And the rest is history. Since that very day, I have been infatuated with thread based, custom taper design, furled leaders for dry fly fishing. I have that very furling board, which still has Andy’s original experimental Spring Creek tapers written on it in pencil. Over the years, I have tested other types of thread and developed many tapers. To be honest though, to this very day, I make and fish only a couple of tapers- specifically for dry fly fishing. Thread based furled leaders are an AQUIRED TASTE. They are what they are. They can hold water. They can sink. They can do this and that. But, in my mind, once you get in sync with a specific taper, they are incredible. In fact, my friend Stuart Crofts, an author in this series, is also a diehard furled leader guy. The beginnings of his passion for these leaders spawned as we fished together in 2003 and built a friendship, several times exchanging fly patterns and ideas. Those of you that know Stu know his exactness and attention to detail. I remember thinking to myself- “this guy has everything on me”. His casting techniques, his entomology, his fly patterns….I’m way behind!”. But, I had 12/0 Benecchi fly-tying thread furled leaders that I had made and when I showed them to him it was like rolling a ball in front of a cat. To this day, I know Stu is a big believer in furled leaders and has developed many tapers, etc.

Reading the water
Reading the water, to me, is perhaps the first step. I like to think of it in two main categories- knowledge and experience. Knowledge is what you know through your own observation or what you have read or been told about a particular piece of water. Experience is what you have been able to do with that information and what results were or were not generated. As you arm yourself with knowledge and experiences, you can look at virtually any body of water and begin to answer “fishing” questions. As I look at water, moving or still, I begin to ask myself knowledge based questions and take in observations such as: do I see any bugs on the water, do I see any feeding in/on the water surface, do I see current seams or breaks, do I see submerged structure, do I see protected water from elements like sun and wind or is it exposed, do I see water that appears to be dropping or rising, do I see drop offs or shelfs, do I see changes in the bottom structure, do I see variation in stream vegetation, do I see back eddies, do I see foam lines, do I see feeder creeks or springs coming in, do I see flat water or rough water, do I see single currents or multiple micro currents, do I see water that looks prime with insect life or void, do I see signs of previous fishing, do I see access or entry points……….. All of these and countless other questions, in my opinion, put me in a position to answer “the” question- Where should fish be?

Once I have asked myself questions such as these and made thoughtful observations, I then call upon my past “experiences” to make conclusions such as: on this piece of water, fish prefer X, historically when the water is rising/falling X happens, fish tend to utilize foam lines and current breaks because of X, fish tend to live there but feed here because of X, this water sets up well to Dry Fly fish, this water sets up well to Nymph fish, this water “probably” gets ignored by other fly fishers, but warrants my attention because of X, this water isn’t worth my time today because of X, this piece of water is worth sitting on because X should happen as the weather changes/evolves, this water should/should not favor the prevailing insect hatch, this water should get shade/sun at X time, this piece of water is best fished up/down stream, this piece of water is something I have/have never fished before and X happened…….

Approach and stealth

Yes. Correct. Those are my shortest answers ever! In all seriousness, once you have read the water, you graduate to the “approach” step. And to me, it pays to always use stealth. Meaning, you must put yourself in the best possible position to execute some sort of cast/presentation which affords you the highest probability of hooking a fish. I have many rules that I live by because they have served me well- such as: Have clothing and gear that doesn’t expose you due to color, brightness or shine. Fish your way into water. Keep a low profile. Stay as close to the water as you can. Learn to cast from your knees and spend time on your knees so you can develop comfort. Learn to walk and wade properly and quietly. Get as close to your target as possible. Learn how to use wind and sun/shade to your advantage instead of always fighting it. Finally, learn what take your time means….meaning….take your time!

Casting ability- which casts are essential

OK, now that you have read the water, processed everything to determine where a fish could/should be, made an approach and put yourself in a great position………you’re ready to cast. As I say, is it ready, fire, aim ……. Or, ready, aim, aim, aim, fire. It seems a lot of fly fishers are ready, “fire”, aim casters or even just fire! Meaning, if you think about it, it might all boil down to your cast right? Can you get the fly, to the target. With that importance, why rush and why not try to improve your skills. In my lifetime I have had the good fortune to have cast with or had personal casting commentary from Lefty Kreh, Tim Rajeff, Bruce Richards, Dave Brandt, George Daniel, Oliver Edwards, Tom Baltz and many others. These individuals had the greatest influence on my casting because they possessed both technical and fishing abilities. Let’s be clear, I am not a super high caliber technical caster. But, I do have confidence in my ability to get a fly to a target. And, I do this by understanding or trying to understand the basics such as: loops, line speed, control, mending, drag, resistance, on-plane vs off, flex, hauls, etc. Just like the best golfers talk about “shaping their shot” ……….I try to have my flies do certain things vs trying to perfect a technical cast. Why? In my mind, it’s often layered, meaning, I might have to increase speed with a tight loop to shoot outward a bit, but I might also have to add an upstream reach and add some slack by decelerating or shocking the cast late. To me, there’s lawn casting and water casting. I try to always practice on water for this reason. Often when I am on the water fishing, I will “fish” to a certain spot even if there is no fish or even if I have spooked a fish. To me, this is like a golfer putting a ball again right after he/she misses a putt. This real time, instant feedback often leads to the best growth and learning. My advice is to learn to be the best caster you can be. Practice and pay for lessons. Video yourself and understand your physical attributes. Just like golf, sometimes it might be easier to work with your “swing” or cast rather than developing a new one.

Rise forms- can they tell us something

I would argue, most of the time, yes. Meaning, and something I say all the time, fish are not very intelligent- but they sure are INSTINCTIVE. The way a fish is feeding typically tells me a lot. Subsurface, in the surface film or on the surface. Why? Observing this behavior can often tell me if the fish is committed to a certain insect or food source; particular to a specific seam or lane; skittish or careless; working or feeding in some rhythm; covering a piece of water or following a path; eating one food source or perhaps multiple; willing to hold its ground and defend another fish’s competition; chasing food; waiting on food; eating something on the surface that appears to be moving or dead; eating something in the surface film that appears to be moving or dead; eating a leaf or stick for exploratory purposes- such as searching for a Terrestrial; feeding on noise; feeding on movement as a trigger; etc. It pays to observe a fish feeding, whenever you can. Polarized glasses and even a small pair of binoculars are an immense help. I often will use my cell phone to video a fish feeding so that I can watch it close-up in a slower speed. Sounds like I am crazy right……but…..to me, rise forms are SUPER informative to any fisher but specifically a Dry Fly-fisher.

Entomology, what should we know

I believe fish eat what they are eating. Sometimes it’s a drift. Sometimes it’s anything that rushes over their head. Sometimes it’s a small black adult stonefly trying to get to the river’s edge. As a fly-fisher, I believe it’s a shortfall to ignore entomology all together and not at least try to understand the basics. As a fly-tier, I personally believe entomology is a must! Since fish, specifically trout & grayling, eat aquatic and land born insects readily, why not arm yourself with this knowledge and incorporate it into your fly patterns. But I didn’t always think that way….

When I spin fished with my father for bass back in the day, we would simply tie something on and cast it out. If it didn’t work, we would change it. Originally, I fly-fished in a very similar manner, tying flies simply to tie them and fishing them simply to fish them. This was my approach until I met Oliver Edwards. Oliver probably didn’t know it, but he was one of the greatest influences or inspirations I had over the years. I met Ollie in the mid 1990’s. What grabbed me about Oliver was not only his personality, generosity, and passion for the sport- but his approach. Anyone that new him knew he was focused more on what trout and grayling eat vs. simply what could catch them. His entomology work was solid, and his patterns were specifically designed to replicate or mimic “real” food. I had the good fortune to both tie and fish with Oliver on various occasions and his passion to make or tie patterns that seemed realistic or at least semi-realistic opened my eyes and started me on various new paths.

In today’s communication age, just about any piece of water has a published insect or “hatch” chart posted somewhere. Understanding or being familiar with these “bugs” can help you immensely. Am I an Entomologist? No. Do I know the intricate differences between Order, Family, etc. Nope. Can I speak Latin? You’re joking right! But, for my trout and grayling fly-fishing exploitations, I have a pretty good “bug” level knowledge of Stoneflies, Caddisflies, Mayflies, Midges, Terrestrials, etc.

Fly selection- size, shape, materials, which flies are essential

I remember having a cold beverage with fellow fly show participants one particular year. Going around the room, so-to-speak, everyone was telling tales of their specific interests and specializations. Some were guides, some were casting competition guys, some dressed Classic Salmon flies, some built custom cane rods and nets, etc. etc. One fella said, “ Glenn, what the hell do you do”? My funny but honest response was- “I like to meet people and most of you clowns wouldn’t know each other if it wasn’t for me”. But, to be honest, that was a fair question in a room with such talented folks. What I did back then and still do to this day, is fuss with flies. I love to tie flies, but specifically, fishing flies. The world today is full of content and its readily accessible. My approach is to learn new techniques and get my hands on new materials so I can improve or “possibly” even design a “newer” pattern. Then they hit the debut box and get fished in various situations trying to prove themselves and advance to the actual fishing lineup. Once there, these patterns remain line starting players in a sports game until they are benched and replaced by something shiny and new.

As mentioned previously, I really like Terrestrial patterns, Midge or small/micro size patterns and of course hatch matching patterns. I am material neutral, preferring to use materials that I feel best suit a specific application in a pattern. I tend to use a ton of CDC, dubbings, elk hair, natural feathers and poly/Zelon synthetics along with foams for Terrestrials. I find thread to be important.

Size, shape, silhouette, movement & action, durability, floatability are all important considerations, in my opinion, when constructing even the simplest of patterns for dry fly fishing. Although this subject matter very easily could generate pages of thoughts, here are a few I have learned over the years:

The size and style of a fly can be important. Often a fish is locked into a particular bug requiring a specific size or can become intrigued by something completely different such as a full size larger or smaller. Additionally, some fish weigh the calories burned to eat vs. the calories gained from eating. It goes without saying that small flies can work on big water and large flies can work on small water (visa versa). But, generally speaking, smaller more delicate flies tend to perform better on flat, slower waters and more robust dry flies are better suited for faster, rougher waters.

I tend to tie and fish both types of dry flies- slow water and fast water. Meaning, when I build my fishing boxes for a specific hatch, I make sure I have slow water and fast water dry flies for each bug. For instance, I will have BWOs or PMDs for both water types. There are many ways to design and tie these patterns, such as: For fast water applications you can use traditional hackle and hair or even both. For slow water you can use CDC, thorax style or parachute hackled patterns. My point is to apply a touch more thought into the design side of your fly patterns, taking into consideration the style of water you most likely will use them on.

Upstream or downstream….. Presentation and drifts……

To me, this question is not the same as dry or wet. Meaning, do you prefer dry fly fishing or wet fly fishing? I think some fly-fishers do tend to prefer one over the other. Or at least go through periods where it works out that way. In my mind, the upstream or downstream debate is a function of what’s been discussed above. Once you have read the water, crafted a plan to make an approach and then put yourself in the best possible position to make a cast and final presentation, I think the upstream or downstream question “should have” worked itself out. Personally, I like the ultimate challenge of casting over the back of a wily trout intending to execute a dry fly presentation. In some cases, a downstream presentation might be a better option or maybe even the only option. Both have their challenges when the fish is spooky, such as the case on flat, clear, slower water vs being reckless on faster running broken water. Some fly fishers believe a downstream presentation is “easier” because the fly tends to greet the fish before the line and leader. I guess this makes sense if you’re fortunate enough to get the fly in in the lane. Both casts can be direct casts or angle casts though, if you think about it. Direct upstream casts are like direct downstream casts in as much as the line, leader and fly can travel in the same current. I read articles where many fly-fishers prefer upstream casts but use an angled approach. Depending on the angle of your cast, it is possible to execute drifts with only the fly marking the fish. I think the challenge in this presentation is the varied currents between you and the fish, which your line, leader and fly must overcome. In my years of fly fishing, and specifically dry fly fishing, I have fished both upstream and downstream. Some of the things I’ve learned, that might be helpful include:

Direct upstream cast- As mentioned above, this is or can be super technical. Why? If you are casting right over the back of a rising fish, the stakes are usually high. In this scenario a delicate presentation is important. Often using a longer leader and tippet makes sense. And, learning various casts to add “slack” or permit the best drag free drift helps as well. I also think it is important to get as close to the fish as possible. Sometimes this is actually pretty easy since the fish is upstream and is facing upstream (up current).

Upstream cast from a side (angle)- I think most fly fishers take this approach when fishing upstream. I think they do this because it helps present the fly without “lining” the fish with the fly line & leader. Obviously, the new challenge becomes the varying currents that your line and leader land upon. Each of these may be capable of adding drag. In this scenario, the position of your body becomes very important. Try to position yourself and conduct analysis of the various currents so you can try to get a uniform drift over your target. Many fly fishers will add a “reach” and various “mends” to their cast to generate or extend these necessary drag free drifts. Again, using the correct length of tippet often is a factor as well.

Direct downstream cast- Like the direct upstream cast, if you are casting in a directional line downstream, your line, leader and fly should be traveling on a similar current. The trick becomes then, trying to make sure your “lane” of drift is the same lane as the fish’s feeding lane. If you are fishing out of a boat or wading in the stream, this approach can be very productive. Some would argue that this particular fishing approach is even necessary in certain circumstances due to various factors. If you find yourself in such a scenario, several concepts to be mindful of include: Be sure to allow the fish time to “eat” the fly before you set the hook. Often a fly fisher will strike too soon. Many have said it takes a couple of seconds time for the fish to eat and turn its head or drop below it’s feeding level. Being patient can help. Also, think about your hook setting prior to fishing this style. Again, many fly-fishers set the hook up and backwards, hence pulling the fish “upstream” against the current. This sometimes causes too much stress or pressure on your tippet and can result in a quick breakoff. Lastly, try different casts when fishing downstream so you can provide the fly with the necessary “slack” to drift at current speeds. If you don’t have enough slack, meaning the leader and tippet are too tight, the fly might float downstream a touch slower than you think. A “dump” cast or “puddle” cast are types of casts you can learn and practice for this scenario.

Downstream cast from a side (angle)- I think most fly fishers take this approach when fishing downstream. I think they do this most often perhaps because they can’t position themselves directly upstream. Obviously, the new challenge becomes the varying currents that your line and leader land upon. Each of these may be capable of adding drag. In this scenario, the position of your body becomes very important. Try to position yourself and conduct analysis of the various currents so you can try to get a uniform drift over your target. Many fly fishers will add a “reach” and various “mends” to their cast to generate or extend these necessary drag free drifts. Again, using the correct length of tippet often is a factor as well. To be fair, this is my preferred method of dry fly fishing. In fact, I like the challenge of fishing directly across from a rising fish. And really like bank feeders. The extra currents between you and the fish often cause you to get the shortest drifts possible. This in turn causes you to work harder at your tippet lengths, casting accuracy, reaches and mends to increase these drifts.

Fighting fish…..

Anybody that knows me knows this is probably the highest rated topic to use to make fun of me. Why? Well, if they’ve fished with me, they’ve probably watched me fish over a particular fish for hours and hours, and hours, and hours and hours, only to finally hook it………..and lose it. Not that it happens all the time- but for sure, I am guilty. To be fair, though, what this means is that I am guilty of fishing a piece of water or a specific fish for a lengthy period. I tend to be attracted to more difficult opportunities. And, if you’re lucky enough to capitalize on some of these, it often leads to a trickier landing. So, I’m not a fish “fighting” or “landing” expert, but I do try to use some basic rules to increase the chances:

• Make sure all tippet and knots are secure.

• Use appropriate tippet. Many fly-fishers seem caught up in the 8x game,

when in reality a larger size will work.

• Try to set the hook “downstream”.

• Try not to overpower a fish.

• Try to use the strongest part of your fly-rod while fighting fish (such as the butt section in many instances).

• Try to hold your position and not necessarily chase fish downstream.

• Have a plan to land a fish beforehand.

• Often, a fish will go on a fight-or-flight run just after the initial hookset. Understand this and “permit” this fish to do this before you start to apply your fighting/landing strategy.

• Often a fish will “flee” the spot where you hooked it. But is quite happy to return to that spot once it understands its hooked.

50 Tips & Techniques to improve your Fly-Fishing experience

By: Glenn R. Weisner – Glenn River Fly Co. Ltd

Fishing Gear Tips

 Don't buy the most expensive and don't buy the cheapest. Price is only an issue in the absence of value.

 Research what best fits your interests (warm water vs. cold, local vs. travel, small quarry vs. large)

 Take comfort, fit & function over image & appearance.

 Try different fly lines & sizes on various rods- it may be easier than changing your casting stroke.

 Have the proper tool for the job.

Clothing and Accessory Tips

 Polarized lenses are mandatory- various colors can help also. Try to block side glare as well.

 Drab clothing colors are preferred. Plenty of sun & bug protection exist today- it’s worth the cost.

 Plan ahead, wear and carry for the elements. A small day pack is very useful.

 Wading staffs, different wading boot bottoms, knee pads, light weight gloves help prevent injury.

 If you evolve into a minimalist, vet pockets, durability, Velcro and zippers before making purchases.

Casting and Line Control Tips

 It doesn’t matter how good or expensive your gear is if you can’t get the fly to the target-PRACTICE!

 Learn a number of casting strokes- they will help you in the wind; for long casts; with obstacles behind

you; with overhead objects and different size flies and gear.

 Strengthen and try to use the correct muscles, especially before a trip.

 Understand when to have the fly line low and on the water vs. high and off the water.

 Learn loop control and release points.

Flies and Fly Tying Tips

 Use high quality (sharp) hooks and proper, clean tying materials.

 Tying flies can be very fulfilling and also often helps sharpen your ‘bug’ knowledge.

 Perfect specific patterns which increases your confidence level. Fish your ‘confidence’ patterns.

 Learn different ways to weight flies as well as different ways dry flies sit on or in the water.

 Modify patterns to adapt to conditions- light levels, wind for casting or drifting, soft water vs. rough.Presentation Techniques or Tips

 Use shade to your advantage by standing in it and casting into it.

 Try fishing water near the banks and try casting back away from the bank.

 Understand how the wind might be moving food sources and use it to your advantage.

 Put wind and sun behind you when you can.

 Break larger water down into smaller segments.

 Understand how “dropper” systems work at different lengths for dry and wet presentation.

 Add movement to your fly- under most circumstances, it can be a primary trigger.

 Try laying your fly line on dead water or objects (streambank) for proper drift.

 Use the loop in your fly line as a strike indicator and as a tool to add movement to streamers.

 Keep your line tight and lead the fly slightly in currents – under most scenarios.

Rules to Fish By

1. Don’t leave rising fish.

2. A fly on the water, stays on the water.

3. Move your fly before you start your cast.

4. Have a plan to land a big fish…… you don’t expect to catch.

5. Fish your way into a stream.

6. Don’t strike too soon.

7. Keep a low profile.

8. Have patience, listen, and watch – it’s called fishing not casting.

9. Foam is home.

10. Trout eat a ‘drift’.

11. Know how to fight a fish and release a fish.

12. Bad things begin to happen when you have a lot of line out.

13. Don’t cast farther- get closer to the fish- it’s surprising how close you can be to most fish.

14. Have a plan “B”! (broken gear, lost luggage, bad weather, crowds, etc)

15. Fish aren’t smart……..but you can easily insult their “instincts”

16. Take a child fishing.

17. Teach others about fly-tying and fly-fishing so you can learn what you don’t know.

18. Hire a guide. Let your guide fish- it benefits both of you.

19. Invest money to take fly-tying and casting lessons.

20. Have fun and ask yourself- “is it really about catching the fish”?

Glenn R. Weisner

Glenn River Fly Co. Ltd.

www.glennriver.com