Peter Corbett

1. Choice of equipment Rods, reels, fly lines, fly floatants, clothes, glasses, and other useful items.

I like a rod with a slow to medium tip for dry fly fishing. For me, a softer tip is so important when fishing 5X and 6X tippets. But it's also nice to have some power in the rod. Gone are the days when the entire rod is either fast or slow. Many of today's rods have a soft tip and a relatively fast butt section allowing for added performance without feeling like you're casting a broomstick. I've been fishing Winston rods for the last 20+ years. The softer tips provide excellent shock absorption when setting the hook on large fish. They load well with 20 feet of line out the tip, and the Boron butt allows for effortless casts of 60+ feet when needed. They are also some of the most beautiful rods out there. What's not to like?

When choosing a reel, I prefer one that can go down to zero drag. Too much start-up inertia is fatal when fishing light tippets. My favorite reel is the Tibor Tailwater. Sadly, it was discontinued several years ago. Its caliper drag system maxes out at maybe 6 pounds of pressure. It's always smooth and never stutters or grabs. It's about five complete turns of the drag knob to go from zero to maximum pressure. I like that because I can adjust the drag knob a quarter turn while fighting a fish and not worry about applying or removing too much pressure by mistake. Galvan is another favorite for that reason. Turning a Galvan drag knob 1/8 of a turn adds maybe 1/4 pound of drag pressure. Contrary to what people say, the reel is not just for holding the fly line. A decent trout can quickly run you well into your backing, and the fish will be lost if your reel hesitates ever so slightly!

I use liquid, gel, and dry shake floatant. I usually start with gel because I apply it to the entire length of the leader and the first foot or two of the fly line. Your leader and line will absorb water after a while and begin to sink. Also, the tag ends from your knots can break the surface tension of water, allowing your leader to start sinking. When your leader starts to sink, your fly drags, and the fish will laugh at your presentation. And remember to reapply floatant to your leader when it starts to sink....I usually reapply every 10 to 15 minutes. Powder desiccant is second to non when drying and re-floating your fly, especially on one that's been eaten.

I prefer a vest when dry-fly fishing. Everything is right there at your fingertips. With a chest or sling pack, you constantly slide the pack back and forth and have to unzip a bunch of compartments. With a vest, aside from your fly fishing accouterments, you can bring snacks, a light raincoat, small pair of binoculars, etc., all in the back pocket. And you can hang your net off the back, so it stays out of the way but have it ready at a moment's notice. I also carry an extra hemostat, nipper, 3X readers, and floatant. I always have a backup for anything I constantly use.

I don't wear bright colors when fishing. Stealth is critical when stalking rising trout. I try to match the background for the particular stream I'll be fishing. When fishing a Spring Creek with nothing but grass-lined banks, white and blue shirts are what I'll wear depending on cloudy or blue skies. When fishing a tree-lined stream, greens and browns blend in nicely.

I'm sure I'll get a lot of crap for this, but I usually fish bright orange WF fly lines. I only find that my line spooks a fish when I cast it between the sun and the fish. It causes a shadow no matter the color. Sure, a fish can see a bright line on the water, but with a 20-foot leader, it's nowhere near its field of vision. Perhaps I'm lucky, but I don't believe I've spooked a fish due to the color of my fly line. Bright fly lines don't spook fish; bad casting does!

2. Leader material, build-up, length, and knots.

I don't tie up my leaders from scratch anymore. While hand-tied leaders might have better turnover, the bigger/thicker knots pick up debris on the water and cause the leader to sink. I decided years ago to embrace technology! I like Rio, Trout Hunter, and Scientific Anglers leaders. I start with a 12-15 foot 4X leader, cut off the first 6-10 inches, and add 1 1/2-2 1/2 feet of 5X and 2 1/2 to 4 feet of 6x, depending on the situation. If I think I can get away with it, I'll start with a 3X leader and taper out to 5X. The most significant benefit of a long leader is that it allows more margin for error. If you're fishing an 8-10 foot leader and you overthrow your fish because of the wind or a lousy cast, there's a chance you'll line the fish or perhaps another fish you didn't see. With a 16-20+ foot leader, you can overthrow your target by 6+ feet and likely not spook the fish. A long leader also acts as a shock absorber when setting the hook on large fish.

5X and 6X tippets are stronger than people think. Next time you're fishing with 6X, attach your fly to a tree branch. Lift your rod and try to break it. You probably won't be able to unless you point your rod at the fly and pull or lift the rod quickly, with slack in the line. The problem with 6X is that it weakens at the eye of the hook after a while. Remember to re-tie your fly to your tippet after hooking/landing a decent fish or catching your fly on a branch. Also, always remember to check for wind knots!

When putting leaders together, I use a double surgeon's knot and a regular clinch knot for flies. They both work just fine if tied slowly and are moistened thoroughly. I don't use 7 or 8X tippet. I don't carry it in my vest. I often find that with a good cast and proper drift, 5X does the trick. And I fish some of the most heavily fished streams in Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming.

3. Approach and stealth.

Rising fish are always on alert! The water on a spring creek is usually not moving quickly over rocks and branches, making lots of noise. It's relatively quiet under the water, and a trout's lateral line will pick up the slightest vibration from your footsteps. Heavy footsteps may not spook the fish, but it puts them on alert. Move slowly, quietly, and with purpose, like a heron. I spend half my day crawling on my hands and knees, keeping low and trying not to be seen. A good pair of kneepads become more valuable the older I get! When walking along a Creek, stay back from the edge. You will usually find two paths near the bank. The most traveled is usually 2-3 feet from the stream. The other is about 10-12 feet further back and barely noticeable. That's the path I always take. And don't forget about the angler coming after you. Stay away from the bank and avoid spooking fish when your day is done, and you're heading back to your rig.

4. Reading the water.

Learning to read the water takes time and experience. Luckily for the novice dry fly fisher, the fish will tell you where they are when feeding on top! However, reading the current is something else entirely. Although it's more straightforward, it can be challenging to figure out. You can only begin to figure it out once your line lands on the water. Then, you adjust accordingly with different mends and casting techniques with each successive cast.

5. Casting ability, which casts are essential.

When turning over long leaders, the ability to double haul is quite helpful and essential on windy days. Learning to double haul is a little intimidating, but it doesn't take long to figure out. Most people single haul on their backcast and don't even know it. A few 10 to 15-minute sessions at your local fly shop will have you double hauling in no time! The Reach, S, and Parachute casts are three to master. All are essential for spooky fish and get you that extra few seconds of drag-free drift so often needed. And while not a cast, stack mending is also a valuable skill to have.

Most anglers worry too much about how far they can throw the line rather than how they throw it!

6. Entomology, what should we know.

No doubt about it, understanding an insect's lifecycle enables you to catch more fish! So read every book you can find on the subject. Get yourself a bug net, carry a hatch guide in your vest, and turn over rocks and logs! There's nothing like time on the water to understand what's going on beneath the surface. But be patient; it takes time!

7. Rise forms. Can they tell us something?

Absolutely! But, like entomology, it takes time to decipher the different rise forms. So, again, read up on the subject and if you're relatively new to dry fly fishing, do yourself a favor and watch more than you fish. Hard to do, but it will pay off in spades!

Over the last 28 years, I've done a lot of work with Todd Moen from Catch Magazine. I was one of his first fly-fishing subjects when he got his first video camera right out of high school in 1994. Waiting for Todd to set up to get the best shot leaves me lots of time to observe hatching bugs and feeding trout, and I've learned a lot! It's not as much fun as hooking them, but it's close. I love crawling to the edge of a creek, peering through the tall grass, and watching colossal trout feeding a few feet away! Knowing whether the fish you're trying to fool is feeding on emergers just below the surface or adults floating on top will save you hours of frustration!

8. Fly selection, size, shape, materials, which flies are essential.

There are too many flies to list here, but I'll mention my favorite pattern. When fishing mayflies, I love Craig Matthew's sparkle dun. The Zelon does double duty as a tail on the adult and a shuck on an emerger. When I fish that pattern or some version of it, I almost always get a good look from the trout!

9. Presentation and drifts.

Presentation of the dry fly is everything! If your fly is not floating drag free and naturally over the fish, it doesn't matter what pattern you use; you'll rarely get a look! Over the years, I've found that the presentation of the fly is more important than size, size is more important than pattern, and the pattern is more important than color. Yes, there are days when you have to match everything perfectly, but many times throwing the right size fly over the feeding fish, drag-free, does the trick. And then there are those days when the fish will take nothing but a poorly tied #16 Purple Haze. Nobody knows why, and don't try to figure it out; it will only take years off your life!

As I mentioned earlier, learning to double hall is necessary, but throwing a super-tight loop is not always the best thing to do. Throwing a tight loop can cause your fly to land hard on the water and spook the entire pod of fish. Also, casting too tight a loop with a long leader can be a wind knot waiting to happen! Quite often, a larger loop is what is required. For instance, you want a wider loop when throwing a parachute cast. You want the leader to pile up on itself and the fly to "parachute" softly onto the water! Don't worry about what your cast looks like, worry about how your cast will make the fly fall, land, and float over the fish!

Also, remember to be aware of your surroundings. Look behind you for trees and bushes before you begin casting, or you might spend the next 5 minutes rebuilding your entire leader.

10. Upstream or downstream?

I almost always fish upstream to rising trout. When fishing downstream, you usually only get a chance or two at a feeding fish. You often have to pull the fly back over the fish, and when wading, you send mud and debris downstream into the fish; they know something is going on. When fishing upstream, the fish are looking away from you. And if you don't line them, you'll get multiple chances to get that perfect drift. Also, remember to pick off any smaller fish below the fish you have your eye on. It's easy to get tunnel vision when you see a monster pushing water. But if you line those smaller fish, they will likely run upstream and spook the fish you really want!

11. Fighting fish.

I always fight my fish as quickly as possible. If it breaks off, I'll hook another. There's no reason to fight a 20-inch trout for 5+ minutes, but I see it all the time. Land the fish as quickly as possible! Bring your rod to your side, parallel with the water, and fight the fish. You'll find the fish comes in much more quickly. If I've hooked a big Brown against a bank with debris/branches below its lie, I've discovered that reeling it in with the least amount of pressure possible will sometimes bring it away from the bank. The fish doesn't panic, and you can start the fight in the middle of the river, away from the snags. But more often than not, it panics when setting the hook and breaks me off on a branch under the surface. More research is needed.

More and more anglers have been fishing three-weight rods for large trout in recent years. Some say it's unethical, but keep in mind, there isn't a three-weight rod made that won't break 4X tippet. That means you can apply as much pressure to the fish as your tippet will bear, regardless of rod weight. More fish die each year on five and six-weight rods using 7X tippet and a 15-minute fight than on three-weight rods with 5X tippet and a 2-3 minute fight! It's not rod weight that kills fish; it's how long one allows the fight to last! Bring your fish in quickly, and it will swim away in fine shape. I like a five-weight because it's easy to cast, and the rod doesn't bend into the cork when fighting large fish, making it easier on my pre-arthritic wrist and fingers.

For the last 15+ years, I've left the fish in the water for all my photos. I usually fish alone, so it's hard to lift a fish out of the water with both hands for the old "Grip n' grin," but I'm conscious of keeping them in the water. Does keeping the fish in the water help its survival after a fight? It can't hurt.